How much area will one gallon of paint cover?

For many paints, one gallon will cover approximately 400 square feet. However, the quality of the paint can affect how much it will cover. The label on the paint can usually provide some guidance. In addition, there are a number of factors that affect how much paint you will need. These include: The type of surface being covered; The color currently on the surface and the color being applied.

How can I tell if I am using good paint?

Paint is made up of three components: The binder, the pigment and the vehicle or, liquid. The best paints contain a higher number of volume-solids. This is the material that remains on the surface after the paint is completely dry. Pay close attention to the solid content on the paint can label. For example: a $13 gallon of paint with a solid content of 19-percent might cover about 200 square feet, while a $20 gallon of paint with 41-percent solid content will cover almost twice that amount. The binder is the most important factor in the durability of the paint you choose. Choose a coating that has more vinyl or acrylic content and less clay by-products (i.e., calcium carbonate, etc.)

What's the advantage using latex paint?

In addition to being thinned with water, latex paints feature: Less odor; Water cleanup; They are non-flammable; Offer faster cleanup; Easy to touchup; Easy to apply; Better gloss retention; Fade less when used outdoors; Won't yellow indoors and are less likely to crack or peel.

Flat wall paints are usually applied to ceilings and walls. Flat wall paints are not suited for kitchens and bathrooms because they lack the scrubability of higher sheen paints. Semi-gloss or gloss paints withstand the frequent washings required in these two areas.

For windows, doors, wood trim and other woodwork, the use of a satin, semi-gloss or gloss enamel are recommended. These surfaces will attract more fingerprints, wear and soil than walls. Because gloss enamels wash more readily, they are more desirable. Semi-gloss latex paints serve well as finishes for wood trim areas, plus the advantage of water cleanup.

Enamels and gloss paints tend to show brush and roller marks, so care must be exercised in application, especially on hot dry days. Preparation of interior surfaces is vital to good results.

Do not use a latex based paint in an area that is subject to repeated cleaning with ammonia based cleaning products.

What should I paint the floor with

Floor paints, also called deck enamels, are for walk-on surfaces. Ordinary high-gloss enamel is not suitable. Floor enamels are formulated to withstand weather and wear on wood and concrete. They come in both oil-based and latex formulas.

Oil-based paints are not recommended for many concrete surfaces, especially those in contact with ground moisture, such as basements and patios, because they will not adhere to damp surfaces. The alkali in concrete may react with the oil to form soap, resulting in poor adhesion, peeling and paint lifting from the surface. Concrete floors which have been penetrated by oils, gasoline, etc., are virtually impossible to paint because it is difficult to clean these surfaces well enough to make paint adhere.

A final advantage of latex floor paints: The homeowner can lay resilient floor tile without removing the old paint. This is not possible with other floor paints.

Conventional floor paints work poorly on garage floors. Car tires get hot as the car is driven, and when the hot tires are exposed to the floor paint, the paint sticks to the tires and is lifted off.

Many gloss floor paints are slippery when wet, and a non-skid additive should be considered.

Why do I need a primer?

Primer/sealers work to eliminate stains (including stains from water and fire damage) cover wood imperfections, hide wallpaper designs and serve as a foundation coat on metals over which a finish coat is applied. They also seal the surface evenly so a topcoat will have uniform gloss.

There are three basic types: alkyd-based, latex-based and shellac-based. The alkyd and latex types work well as stain killers and general-purpose primers on both interiors and exteriors.

The shellac-based type blocks out the widest variety of stains, including knots and sap streaks in new wood, and adheres to slick surfaces such as glass and tile. This type is recommended for general-purpose priming on all interior surfaces, but should only be used for spot priming on exterior surfaces.

Acrylic or vinyl-acrylic latex’s are the most frequently sold latex-based primers, but vinyl-based types are available. The term "latex-based" includes vinyl, acrylic and vinyl-acrylic copolymer types. Acrylic block fillers are used to prime concrete block.

What is Faux Finishing?

Decorative Faux interior painting is a hot trend as do-it-yourselfers discover how easy it is to enhance the look of their rooms with a variety of simple applications.

Most types of decorative faux interior painting involve applying one or more colors in broken layers over a different-colored background, creating a mottled or textured effect. Most of these techniques begin with a base coat of solid colored semi-gloss or satin paint, followed by a thinner coat of paint called a glaze.

A versatile glaze can be made using one part interior latex paint, one part water and four parts acrylic latex glaze. This basic glaze works well for three of the most popular broken color techniques: sponging, rag-rolling and ragging.

Sponging is a simple technique that begins with application of a solid base color of paint. After the base coat dries, a glaze of another color is dabbed on with a slightly dampened natural sea sponge, creating a mottled look. More than one glaze color can be used, but each color needs to dry before moving on to the next; using quick-drying latex paint can speed up the process.

Ragging and rag rolling can achieve effects similar to crushed velvet, parchment, chamois leather, watered silk or brocade. As with sponging, ragging begins with application of a coat of paint in a solid color and allowing it to dry. A crumpled cloth is then used to add glaze in another color. To rag-roll, a cloth is rolled into a sausage shape of varying tightness, lightly dipped into the glaze and rolled gently across the base coat.

Ragging and rag-rolling results vary according to the cloth material used. Linen, lace and burlap are common choices, but almost any material will do if it is clean and free of lint.

For a slightly different effect, each of these techniques can be done as a "negative method." In this case, a glaze coat is applied over the base coat, and a sponge is used to remove some of the glaze before it has a chance to dry. As the glaze is removed, the underlying color is exposed.